HOLY TRINITY CHURCH

One of the prettiest sights in Stratford-on-Avon is to stand on the bridge and gaze down the winding, willow-lined River Avon towards Holy Trinity Church with its lovely setting, beautiful architecture and elegant spire. It is universally known as ‘Shakespeare’s Church’ as it is where he was baptised and buried.

The approach to the church is by a long flagstone path between an avenue of majestic lime trees leading to the north door. The trees on the left represent the tribes of Israel and those on the right the Apostles, with the holly bush for Judas and the set-back lime for Matthias.

The church has an extremely interesting history as the first mention of a ‘house of worship’ on the site dates back to 845 when the King of Mercia granted privileges to a small minster church in Stratford. It was probably built of wood but the earliest records of the present church date from 1332, with many changes and additions being made in subsequent years. In 1675 a wooden spire was added, this in turn being replaced in 1763 by the elegant stone spire we see today.

The navel, built of limestone from the Cotswold Hills, represents 200 years of architectural development. The stained glass is mainly Victorian as most of the medieval glass was destroyed during the Reformation. The Clopton Chapel (or Lady Chapel) was dedicated to the patron saints of the local guilds but after the Reformation it became associated with Sir Hugh Clopton, a great benefactor to Stratford and sometime Lord Mayor of London, and an altar tomb was prepared for him but he was buried in London in 1496.

The very fine chancel was built in 1480 from local Warwick stone and is dominated by the east window, the Victorian stained glass depicts the ‘Adoration of the Crucified’. There are so many things of interest to be seen here including the beautifully carved stalls and misericords which have been in continuous use for over 500 years. They merit closer inspection as the carvings represent all manner of figures from 15thC life, including a woman simultaneously pulling a man’s beard, hitting him with a pan and kicking him painfully! The chained Bible on display is an example of the first edition of the King James Authorised Version, printed in London in 1611 in the old Gothic Type. The broken font near Shakespeare’s tomb dates from the 15thC and is almost certainly the one in which the Bard was baptised. It is thought that it was probably removed in the 17thC when Cromwell’s Puritan zeal was at its height but was saved from total destruction by Thomas Paine who was the Parish Clerk at the time. It had been used as a cattle trough for many years but was found in a local garden and finally restored, albeit in broken form, to the chancel in 1823.

Of course for many visitors Shakespeare’s tomb is the great attraction. He died on 23rd April, the 52nd anniversary of his birth, and is buried in the chancel with his wife, daughter and son-in-law beside him. The very fine memorial above the grave was sculpted by Gerard Janssen within a few years of Shakespeare’s death and shows the Bard complete with quill and parchment. Although there were no contemporary painted portraits of him it is considered that this must be a fair likeness as it was completed in his widow’s lifetime.

Every year on the 23rd April world-wide homage is paid to William Shakespeare, generally considered to be the finest playwright ever, and a large procession of local dignitaries, ambassadors of many nations and famous theatrical figures carrying floral tributes winds through the town. Holy Trinity Church is the final destination and the wreaths and flowers are laid at Shakespeare’s tomb, creating a veritable floral carpet. A fitting tribute to a genius who made the world aware of the beauty of the English language.

Click on either of the images to order a print or product with a digital watercolour of Holy Trinity Church - or enter the Stratford Images website shop here.

Harvard House

Harvard House - Watercolour by Paul Wright

(click on image to order a print)

Harvard House may appear somewhat of a Cinderella compared to the other properties administered by the Shakespeare Birthplace Trust, but it is an extremely interesting building - particularly for American visitors.

In 1596 Thomas Rogers, a wealthy merchant, built number 26 High Street as a prestigious family residence and recorded the date and the initials of his wife Alice and their son William on the front of the building. This elaborately carved façade is the richest example remaining in town and a testimony to Rogers’s wealth. The Rogers’s daughter, Katherine, married Robert Harvard of Southwark, London. They had six children but in 1625 Robert and four of their children succumbed to the plague then ravishing the capital, leaving just two sons, John and Thomas. His widow was left well provided for and shortly afterwards married again, John Elletson, but only five months later he also died leaving her the bulk of his property.

Number 26 was known as ‘The Ancient House’ and it was not until the late nineteenth century, when the link was firmly established, that it was renamed Harvard House.

John Harvard was born in 1607 and educated at St Saviour’s Grammar School in Southwark then entered Emmanuel College, Cambridge graduating with both BA and MA degrees. His mother died in 1635 and John inherited her substantial estate, his brother dying two years later. In 1636 he married Ann Saddler and they sailed to America in 1637. Realising the importance of education in a growing colony he took a substantial library with him and was warmly received being admitted as a freeman of the colony. This promising beginning was cut cruelly short as he died, after a short illness, in 1638 aged just 31. He left no will but made a verbal disposition of his property: half his estate and all his library to the proposed newly founded college at Newtown (which later became Cambridge) Massachusetts. It was the estate inherited from his mother which enabled him to be such a generous benefactor. In 1639 it was ordered, ‘that the college agreed on formerly to be built at Cambridge shall be called Harvard College’. The college became Harvard University in 1780.

Harvard House was administered by Harvard University, through a British trust, until the Shakespeare Birthplace Trust assumed responsibility for it. The large Stars and Stripes flag still flies, proudly acknowledging its connection to John Harvard and the fine University he made possible.

In 1996 Harvard House became the Museum of British Pewter following the generous donation to the Shakespeare Birthplace Trust of the Neish Pewter Collection and the fitting out of the House to accommodate it. It is well worth a visit to see these unique and beautiful pieces.

Henley Street & The Birthplace

William Shakespeare's Birthplace

Henley Street, in the summertime, offers visitors and locals alike a variety of entertainment. Firstly the buskers seem to be particularly attracted to it. Yesterday, for instance, there was a young guy outside the bank belting out his version of rock with a well amplified backing. Maybe he had dreams of being 'discovered' and up there with the uber-celebs and the correspondingly rich lifestyle. Over the road, and in complete contrast, was a 'golden oldie' playing his accordian to the somewhat dated 'Roll out the Barrel'. His thoughts were probably less ambitious, not going beyond attracting some dosh into his hat. A little further along were two pretty, sweet-faced girls, looking no older than sixteen, playing a violin and flute respectively. They were in national costume and said shyly, and in excellent English, that they were from Belarus and on holiday. Then outside the library there was the almost resident greyed-up Shakespeare figure standing on a small dais, whose modus operandi is to pose statue-like so that visitors can have their photos taken beside him. He seems to have put a twist on it this summer as once the punter is beside him he suddenly leans down and shouts loudly at which the poor soul screams and leaps about a couple of feet in the air, much to the delight of onlookers. They usually see the joke though and happily hand over some cash.

Of course the No. 1 attraction in this street is The Birthplace to which thousands of visitors flock each year. The doorway just has to be about the most photographed in the country as everyone wants to stand in front of it and have an 'I was there' picture to show the folks back home. Visitors pour in from all over the world, particularly Orientals who, I understand, have a wide knowledge of the Bard and his works. Coach loads of children come too, probably fulfilling part of the schools' cultural curriculum.

If you have got this far do go to the very end of the street to look at the charming statue of The Jester. This bronze is the work of James Butler, RA and around the plinth are quotations from 'As You Like It', 'Twelfth Night' and 'Hamlet' - all pertaining to various jesters in these plays. This specially commissioned work was, as the plaque shows, 'A Gift from Anthony Bird, OBE, to Stratford-on-Avon as a token of his esteem for the town in which he was born, lives and works and which has given him so much friendship, good fortune and pleasure'. - Charming!

Oh, and by the way, click on Shakespeare's birthplace image above and you can order one of the many great souvenirs bearing this fabulous digital watercolour by my son-in-law, Paul Wright.

Eating out in Stratford

Stratford-on-Avon (or, as purists have it, Stratford-upon-Avon) is a very pleasant place to live as well as visit. Apart from its world-wide claim to fame as the birthplace of that greatest of all bards, William Shakespeare, it is basically a small market town. Once one has 'done' the Shakespeare 'properties' there is plenty more to see. The charmingly developed area around the River Avon, known as The Bancroft, is the scene of many attractions such as the timeless pleasure of watching small children feeding the ducks, taking a trip down the river on one of the boats which leave every half-hour or hanging over the bridge looking down on longboat holidaymakers anxiously navigatling their way through the lock. At weekends visiting jugglers, fire-eaters etc. invite onlookers to marvel at their clever acts and, hopefully, drop some dosh into the hat which inevitably does the round afterwards.

Then there is the question of 'Where to Eat?' As in every town there are dozens of fast food outlets but perhaps you may fancy a little more. These are a few I can recommend.

The Ripple Cafe is to be found on the far side of the river near to the boathouse and bandstand. It offers excellent buffet Thai and Chinese dishes. The pavilian-style restaurant is bright and airy with a 'seaside-effect' blue and white decor and wrap-round windows overlooking the river. Various Shakespeare quotations adorn the walls, perhaps to inspire one whilst 'grazing' ! A word of advice: don't get carried away by the abundance of mouth-watering choices. Little and often is the best way . You can go back as often as you like, starting with soup, salads, mini spring rolls, etc before moving on to the many yummy dishes to accompany rice and noodles. Desserts are mainly fresh fruit - just right after the rich dishes. It is very reasonably priced at £8 at lunchtime so perhaps the rather highly-priced wines, and even water, can be forgiven. The evening set-price for a three course meal is £14.95 . A friend who visited then thought they could do with using the dimmer switch to tone down the over-bright light on the white walls!

Phone: 01789 292121

Whilst in this area do visit The Butterfly Farm which is nearby. I think it's a pity that it doesn't seem to be very well known to visitors. I took my grandchildren and they were utterly enchanted to be surrounded by the large and colourful butterflies. There is a very attractive pond with huge koi and carp but, inevitably, my grandson found the snakes, spiders and other horrors most attractive. Extra good on a chilly day when the tropical heating is welcome.

For the most concentrated restaurant area try Sheep Street for a wide variety ranging through Italian, French, Indian and Malay. Lambs is in a lovely 16thC building with a great soft-lighted ambience serving excellent food, beautifully presented. Perhaps inevitably I ordered the rack of lamb which was delicious and a feast for the eyes. This is a little more 'up-market' but well worth it for a special occasion. They have a set menu on offer for a two-course £15 or 3-course £20.

Phone: 01789 292554 - closed Monday.

For a family celebration we recently visited Sorrento in Ely Street. As the name suggests they offer a selection of pasta dishes but we all opted for meat or fish dishes. My medallions of fillet beef, medium-rare were cooked to perfection, pink on the inside but tender, tender. Others chose rib-eye steak with a mushroom and tomato sauce, fillet steak with green pepper sauce and salmon and lemon sole. All were pronounced delicious. I plan to sample their lunch time menu some time soon. This offers quite a choice for a 2-course at £8.90 or 3-course for £12.90.

Phone: 01789 297999

Not far from Stratford is the pretty village of Aston Cantlow where the XVth Century Kings Head is found. It is a family run country inn with low oak beams, flagged stone floors and open log fires. It is reputed that William Shakespeare's parents held their wedding reception here after being married in the local church in 1557. I was delighted to have my daughter and family over from Australia to spend Christmas with us so felt this was just the place to take them all for dinner as it had Olde English pub atmosphere in spades - plus decorations and tree. What a wonderful setting for the really great meal we enjoyed. Since then I have lunched there - there is a choice of sitting in the bar area or the light and airy added-on restaurant. As before the food was superb, well cooked and beautifully presented. It is apparently renowned for its duck suppers, so will have to try this. As well as having Egon Ronay and Michelin Guide recommendations it has also won the Warwickshire Dining Pub of the Year Award, so can be seen to be in the 'serious food' business offering much more than 'pub grub'!

Phone: 01789 488242